Plain-English definitions of the plumeria terms used throughout the app — so beginners can care for their plants with confidence.
A cultivated variety of plumeria selected for specific traits like flower color, fragrance, or growth habit. Written in single quotes, e.g. 'Singapore White'.
The cluster of flowers on a stem. Plumeria produce an inflorescence (a flower stalk called a peduncle) at the tip of branches, often bearing many blooms.
The stalk that supports an inflorescence. On plumeria it emerges from the tip of a branch and carries the flower cluster.
A piece of stem removed from a parent plant and rooted to grow a new, identical plant. Plumeria cuttings are usually 12–18 inches long and allowed to callus before planting.
The dry, hardened tissue that forms over a cut end of a plumeria cutting. Letting a cutting callus for 1–2 weeks before planting helps prevent rot.
A powder or gel applied to a cutting to encourage faster, more reliable root development.
Joining a piece of one plumeria (the scion) onto the root system of another (the rootstock) to preserve a desired cultivar or speed up blooming.
A technique where roots are encouraged to form on a branch while it is still attached to the parent plant, then the rooted section is removed and potted.
A natural resting period, usually in cooler months, when a plumeria drops its leaves and stops growing. Water should be reduced dramatically during dormancy.
A potting mix that water passes through quickly rather than holding it. Typically a blend of potting soil with perlite, pumice, or bark to prevent root rot.
Decay of roots caused by overly wet soil and poor drainage, often linked to fungal pathogens. Signs include a soft, mushy base and yellowing or dropping leaves.
A fungal disease (frangipani rust) that causes orange-yellow powdery spots on the undersides of leaves. Improve airflow and remove affected leaves.
Tiny sap-sucking pests that cause fine webbing and stippled, yellowing leaves. Thrive in hot, dry conditions; treat with water sprays or horticultural oil.
Small white, cottony insects that cluster in leaf joints and suck plant sap. Remove with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab or insecticidal soap.
Damage to leaves or stems from sudden, intense sun exposure, especially on young or newly moved plants. Gradually acclimate plants to full sun.
A primary nutrient that promotes leafy green growth. Too much nitrogen can reduce blooming in plumeria.
A primary nutrient that supports root development and flowering. A 'bloom booster' fertilizer is higher in phosphorus.
A primary nutrient that supports overall plant health, disease resistance, and water regulation.
The three numbers on a fertilizer label representing the ratio of Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium, e.g. 10-30-10.
A fertilizer with a higher phosphorus content used to encourage flowering rather than leaf growth.
Yellowing of leaves due to lack of chlorophyll, often caused by nutrient deficiency (such as iron or nitrogen) or poor drainage.
Gradually exposing a plant grown indoors or in shade to outdoor sun and wind so it adjusts without stress or damage.
Moving a plant into a larger container with fresh soil to give roots more room. Plumeria prefer being slightly root-bound and don't need frequent repotting.
When a plant's roots have filled the container completely. Plumeria tolerate this well and may even bloom more reliably when slightly root-bound.
A breathable fabric used to cover and protect plumeria from freezing temperatures during winter cold snaps.
Isolating a new or sick plant away from the rest of your collection to prevent spreading pests or disease.
Another common name for plumeria, used in many regions. The two terms refer to the same plant genus.